Central FLavors: Nostalgic feasts; Thanksgiving recipes that warm the soul

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Few days are as perfect for lounging in pajamas all morning as Thanksgiving and Christmas. With Thanksgiving right around the corner, it’s time to embrace long cups (or three) of coffee, decadent breakfasts, and a house full of company (which can be both good and bad) — whether it’s your favorite uncle drinking too much wine or your aunt telling everyone embarrassing stories about how she used to change your diapers! Thanksgiving always comes with its quirks, but that’s part of its charm.

As a kid, I knew it was Thanksgiving when my grandfather — my mother’s father — would show up with a big brown paper bag of naranja agria (sour oranges) from the tree in his yard. He would hand them to my mom and say, “Aquí tienes para adobar el pavo” (“Here you are, so that you can marinate the turkey”).

The turkey recipe is tied to a story I never tire of telling. My mother’s recipe was passed down to her from her grandmother, Juana (whom everyone called “Nena”), my great-grandmother. Nena received the recipe from her neighbor, Nini. Nini was married to Carlitos, who worked as a cook for President Nixon at the Little White House on Key Biscayne in the early ’70s.

We Cubans love our nicknames, and as you can tell, everyone had one! Nixon always spent Thanksgiving in Florida, and this is the turkey recipe that he thoroughly enjoyed during those gatherings.

My mom would put the turkey in the oven the night before, and I remember waking up to the amazing smell on Thanksgiving morning. The aroma of roasting turkey would fill the house, while the soft hum of the Macy’s Parade played in the background.

Now, as an adult, when I’m not able to make it to South Florida for Thanksgiving, I often make my mom’s turkey recipe. While cooking is undoubtedly a big part of the day, the Macy’s Parade and the dog show are equally memorable.

Oscar and I look forward to these two events every year. The parade is one of my absolute favorite things about the holidays. In fact, I still get butterflies in my stomach when it begins. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t feel the same way now, at 48, as I did when I was 6. Oscar and I cheer on our favorite balloon (#TeamSnoopy), and I cry every year at the end when Santa comes out.

The dog show is also one of our favorites. We always look for the dogs representing our two crazy girls: the short-haired dachshund for Athena and the Australian cattle dog for Hope. The beauty of Thanksgiving is that it’s a day where copious amounts of eating and watching TV are not only socially acceptable, but encouraged and treasured.

While the food and festivities create wonderful memories, Thanksgiving is also a time to reflect on what matters most. After all, it’s a day to give thanks, and what we’re thankful for changes year by year.

I remember about seven years ago, after we said grace, my mother-in-law added aloud, “And next year, may there be a baby at this table.” It took us all by surprise, but we certainly agreed. Back then, there were no grandchildren in the family. The following year, my nephew, Levi, joined us at the table, just 2 months old. Now, there are six grandchildren in the family.

As I get older, the things I give thanks for on Thanksgiving are the same things I give thanks for every morning when I pray and meditate: my health, my husband, my family and my friends. These are the only things any of us truly need in this world. As I write this, I can’t believe it’s already the holiday season. It feels like I was just writing about New Year’s yesterday. So, as you light the candles on your Thanksgiving table this year, remember: A candle never gets longer, only shorter. Enjoy today, and be thankful.

For this month’s recipes, I’m sharing dishes that bring me joy at Thanksgiving. I hope they do the same for you. First up is my mom’s turkey recipe. It’s more of a method than a strict recipe, as the quantities vary depending on the size of your turkey. Also, this is the first time I’ve ever shared it publicly — thank you, Mom, for letting me do so!

Nixon’s Favorite Roast Turkey

MERCY GABINO STANDS PROUDLY IN FRONT OF HER THANKSGIVING TABLE.

Ingredients

Sour oranges (about 1 per pound of turkey). Sour oranges are available at most Latin markets such as Fancy Fruit, Bravo, etc. If you can’t find them, you can use a ratio of two limes to one orange to equal one sour orange.

Salt: 1/2 teaspoon per pound of turkey

Pepper to taste

Garlic powder: 1/2 teaspoon per pound of turkey

Onion powder: 1/2 teaspoon per pound of turkey

1 3-pound bag of onions, peeled and roughly chopped

6 large Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored and chopped

1 pound hickory-smoked bacon, chopped

Olive oil

Marinate the turkey two to three days before cooking with sour orange juice, salt, pepper, garlic powder and onion powder. Be sure to get the marinade under the skin, inside the cavity, and all over the turkey. Refrigerate until Thanksgiving Day.

Before putting the turkey in the oven, prepare the onion, apple and bacon mixture. Place the chopped onions, apples and bacon inside the turkey cavity, and scatter any extras around the turkey in the roasting pan. Brush the turkey all over with olive oil, and cook according to its weight.

Once the turkey is done, blend the drippings, apples, onions and bacon in batches in a blender, pulsing a few times to achieve a chunky consistency (not completely smooth). Once blended, keep the gravy warm on the stove until ready to serve. My sister, Shelby, loves this gravy so much that she eats it like soup!

 

Next up is my famous pumpkin bread, which I usually make for Thanksgiving morning. Several years ago, I ran a micro bakery, and I would make 30-35 loaves of this a day. It was my best-selling item.

Pumpkin Bread (makes two loaves)

PUMPKIN BREAD IS THE PERFECT WAY TO START THANKSGIVING DAY.

2 cups whole wheat flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

2 cups white sugar

2 eggs

1 15-ounce can pumpkin

Green, untoasted pumpkin seeds for topping (often called pepitas and sold in Latin markets such as La Calentana in DeLand)

A sprinkle of salt for after baking

 

Preheat the oven to 325 F, and generously grease two 8-inch-by-4-inch loaf pans. Trace the bottom of a pan onto a piece of folded parchment paper, and cut it out to line the inside bottom of each pan.

In a medium-size bowl, combine the flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, cloves, cinnamon and nutmeg. Stir with a whisk, and mix well.

In a large bowl of an electric mixer or using a hand mixer and a large bowl, beat the butter and sugar until blended well. Add the eggs, one at a time, and beat after each addition. Continue beating for a few minutes until light and fluffy. Mix in the pumpkin while continuing to beat lightly. The mixture may look curdled and grainy at this time, but that is all right. Add the flour mixture, scrape the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula, and beat until well combined, but do not overmix.

Divide the batter evenly into the two prepared pans, sprinkle with a few green pumpkin seeds, and bake for 65 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Let cool completely, and sprinkle the top with just the tiniest bit of salt.

This bread keeps beautifully at room temperature in a sealed container or bag for about five days. Do not refrigerate. You may freeze it for up to three months, thawing it in the refrigerator overnight when ready to use.

 

Lastly, here’s a recipe that I shared last year. However, I’ve lost track of how many people have asked me for it since then. It’s possibly the most-requested recipe I’ve ever published. So, here it is once more this year. I can’t think of a better way to round out the holiday meal.

Pumpkin Pecan Bread Pudding With Bourbon Syrup

PUMPKIN, PECANS AND BOURBON IN BREAD PUDDING? YES, PLEASE!

For the bread pudding: 

1 large loaf of French bread

2 cans of condensed milk

1 can of evaporated milk 

1 15-ounce can pumpkin

4 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon cloves

1/4 teaspoon ginger

2 cups whole pecans

 

For the syrup:

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup bourbon

Pinch of salt

First off, this dessert is best made 1-2 days before, making it perfect for Thanksgiving. Preheat your oven to 350 F, and grease a 9-inch-by-13-inch pan.

In a large bowl, tear the bread into small pieces. Add the evaporated milk, condensed milk and pumpkin, and allow it to soak for about 30-40 minutes, until the bread is soft. Then, add the eggs, vanilla, spices and pecans, mixing until just combined; do not overmix.

Pour the mixture into the prepared pan, and smooth the top. Bake for about 50 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean (your oven time may vary). Allow the pudding to cool completely.

Prepare the syrup by boiling the sugar and water until dissolved, which should take about 5-7 minutes. As with any sugar syrups, use extreme caution, as it will be incredibly hot. Allow the syrup to cool completely, and then add the bourbon and salt, mixing well.

Pour the syrup over the cooled pudding. Keep the assembled bread pudding in the fridge until ready to serve. This dessert can be served in squares or cut into small individual squares and placed on wrappers.

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2 COMMENTS

  1. Nixon’s Turkey is on my list to try now, Iimmediatley followed by the Pumpkin Bread and Bread Pudding! A home run on all accounts! Regarding the bacon; is it cooked, semi cooked or raw? I was wondering if the turkey is not too large and cooking time is less, does the bacon have a chance to cook? Thanks

  2. Your stories are nostalgic and leave a special warmth and smile in my heart. They remind me of my childhood and even one of our grandmothers share the same nickname, Nena. You are correct, everyone had a nickname! I look forward to trying your Nixon Turkey and bread pudding recipes with my family as well as sharing the gift of your stories. Forever grateful for the opportunity to share a tiny slice of my day with you and Oscar. I hope God grants you both with much health and happiness so we can continue enjoying your stories and recipes for many years to come!
    Muah!

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